Cerro Torre
Cerro Torre (3102m), Egger and Standhardt above Glacier Grande.
Cesare Maestri claimed in 1959 that he and Toni Egger had reached the summit and that Egger had been swept to his death by an avalanche while they were descending. However, inconsistencies in Maestri's account, and the lack of bolts, pitons or fixed ropes on the route has led most mountaineers to doubt Maestri's claim. Only in 2005, after many attempts by world-class alpinists, was a confirmed route put up on the face that Maestri claimed to have climbed. Maestri returned to the mountain in 1971 with a large team and a compressor which he hoisted up the mountain putting steel pitons in as he progressed. He once again claimed a summit although he did not ascend the ice mushroom, as he claimed it was not part of the mountain. This route now called the 'compressor route' has since been climbed, however evidence of pitons or any type of protection stopped long before the summit plateau.
The first undisputed ascent is that by Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri in 1974.
Crossing the Rio Fitz Roy on a Tyrolean traverse.
The ice mushroom on the summit of Cerro Torre which has been at the centre of much debate is 60m high.
Cesare Maestri claimed in 1959 that he and Toni Egger had reached the summit and that Egger had been swept to his death by an avalanche while they were descending. However, inconsistencies in Maestri's account, and the lack of bolts, pitons or fixed ropes on the route has led most mountaineers to doubt Maestri's claim. Only in 2005, after many attempts by world-class alpinists, was a confirmed route put up on the face that Maestri claimed to have climbed. Maestri returned to the mountain in 1971 with a large team and a compressor which he hoisted up the mountain putting steel pitons in as he progressed. He once again claimed a summit although he did not ascend the ice mushroom, as he claimed it was not part of the mountain. This route now called the 'compressor route' has since been climbed, however evidence of pitons or any type of protection stopped long before the summit plateau.
The first undisputed ascent is that by Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri in 1974.
The route was long considered the hardest mountain climb in the world.
For a more detailed history of Cerro Torre check out this link www.americanalpineclub.orgCrossing the Rio Fitz Roy on a Tyrolean traverse.
The ice mushroom on the summit of Cerro Torre which has been at the centre of much debate is 60m high.