Monday, July 31, 2006 

Misc pics 2. Sacred Valley & Cuzco.

The glaciated peaks looming over the Sacred Valley en route to Machu Picchu...on the train.

The valley follows the route of the Rio Urabamba and is rich in both fertile farmland and Inca ruins such as those at Ollantaytambo.









The afternoon sun in Cuzco.













The famous 12 sided stone laid by the Inca, each side representing an Inca King.

 

Misc pics. Cusco, Sacsayhauman & Machu Picchu.

Not sure who looks more shocked.











Poor Alpaca.

When the Inca created Cuzco they did so in the shape of the Puma. Sacsayhuaman being the head of the Puma and the 3 tiered defences of the fort formed the teeth in their zig zag pattern.











Cuzco as seen from Sacsayhauman and the statue of Christ the Redeemer.

Sunday, July 30, 2006 

Machu Picchu

The classic photo of Machu Picchu taken from the caretakers hut (of the funery rock).

It's such a strange feeling having looked at this image for years actually sitting there taking the photo for your own album.






















 

Machu Picchu

Inside the ruins with the familiar shape of Huana Picchu in the distance.












The precipitous slopes were very unpopular with the young Inca lads who lost countless footballs in to the River below.

A point of general interest is the footballs of the day were made from apple sized spherical stones wrapped very tightly with baby Alpaca wool. The first football boots were worn by the champion teams of the day, made from baby Alpaca leather. This enabled them to put backspin on the ball, thus reducing the amount of balls lost in the river when shots went wide.



Alpaca, relieved they don't make Alpaca boots anymore.

 

Cusco at last.

After what we'd been through over the last 903km any less of a welcome would have been a disappointment.

Since Huancayo we've ridden on 178km of tarmac, 725km of dirt roads. Climbed 5 passes of 4000m or more. The Peruvian highlands proved to be much harder than we'd imagined. The bikes and equipment performed without fault, not even a puncture.





We can now relax and enjoy all the tourist trappings of the old Inca capital Cuzco.

An early arrival in the Plaza De Armas.


In the background, Cuzco Catherdral home of the famous Guinnea Pig Last Supper painting.







The Plaza De Armas and the mid afternoon swarms.

 

Abancay

It´s best to keep the tent out of view of the road.
This was a beautiful spot for the night looking west over a range of jagged peaks (not shown).

Can you see the tent?









The road to Abancay (hidden in the misty valley) was long. A 60 Km descent was just enough to relax our weary legs before the final 20km climb into the town.

The main event here was the end of the dirt and the begining of the tarmac. Significantly this not only means our bottoms don´t get quite so bruised but it means the food is better or at least more varied. Unfortuantely it's still fried in the same oil they were using 6 months ago so fried banana and guinea pig (cuy frito) tastes just about the same.



Sunday, July 23, 2006 

On the road to Abancay

At last the proper mountains were getting closer. Abancay lies just to the south of these Cuillin style peaks. A further 4 days cycling is Cuzco & Machu Pichu...and more importantly some decent food.










A splash of the local cologne 'Baron Dandy' had the ladies queing up. Unfortuanately for them i'm already taken, no matter how many potatoes they offered me.











Another 4 star hotel.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006 

The egg truck to Andahuaylas

The undulating road followed the Rio Pampas for another 18km before breaking off to climb up towards Chincheros and then over another high pass to Andahuaylas. (about 120km).






Sarah had become increasingly unwell. Rather than camping wild with the mosquitoes, we flagged down a truck to take us to Chincheros and a Doctor. Chincheros turned out to be a two pig and a three legged donkey town. Luckily the eggs were destined for Andahuaylas our next destination so we settled in for the 5-6 hour journey at 4300m.


As it happened, the bolts holding one of the wheels on sheared. We spent a very cold night with a million eggs.

We abondoned the truck at dawn and attempted to ride the rest of the way. Unfortunately at this point Sarah had taken to temporary fits of blindness which made it almost impossible to ride any further. It should be noted that Richard made an heroic attempt to guide her down using sonar type beeps every 3 seconds to keep her on track. This failed.

Andahuaylas. They don't just do bull fighting, they strap a bloomin condor to the poor things back and whoop for joy. Really.

 

Ocros to Chincheros (Puente Pampas)

Leaving Ocros at 3300m we descended 30km towards Puente Pampas (bridge over the Rio Pampas) at 2700m.






The steep sided gorges cut by tributaries of the Rio Pampas were once home to Colonial settlers. The rich citrus groves still remain.
Mr Hackett might find the irrigation systems particuarly interesting.






Taking a few moments at the bridge. The worst thing about getting to a bridge is that you know it's up hill for the rest of the day.....











 

Ocros to Chincheros

View from the top. Looking down from about 4100m to Ocros at 3300m. It´s the sort of road you´d love to freewheel down on a bike IF it wasn´t so full of potholes and rocks.






It´s not often such natural beauty abounds.




















The road cut into the mountain side. It's certainly an incentive to look where you´re going.

Monday, July 17, 2006 

Our first high pass. 10th July

After a couple of nights in the relative luxury of Ayacucho we headed out of town and upwards towards our first high pass. After a hard days riding on the dusty roads out of town we started looking for a camping spot for the night. We asked a young girl if she new of any villages close by where we could buy supplies. She pointed us in the direction of her parents house. The one on the hillside with the animals she told us. It turned out to be a great night. The Quechen family made us very welcome, although were clearly a little disturbed by the size of Sarah´s feet. We shared our oranges and they gave us potatoes. They loved our torch, binoculars and family photo´s.

We took this family portrait and will post it to them when we arrive in Cuzco.


Another days riding took us to the pass. We imagined an Alpine type pass not one that lasts 60km.







At almost 4400m we figure next time we´re in the Alps we´ll bike up Mont Blanc and run up the last 400m.







This camp was around 4100m and too high for our liking. Water was scarce and Sarah was seriously dehydrated but I was sure I could push her further!
It took us most of the morning to get to the edge of the mountains and to the descent. Then a further 3.5 hours to descend 1Km into Ocros.








 

Leaving Huanta

It was a long dark road to Huanta but leaving was much nicer than arriving. The local cycling club had heard there was some gringos in town. They were going out for a ride and came to find us before we set off. They made great pace setters and it was quite a relief when they waved us goodbye at the top of the hill.









One of the few roads we´ve travelled on that has been tarmac. It´s difficult to descibe how nice it feels to ride on a smooth road especially when it´s downhill.

This was only a couple of hours outside Ayacucho, which turned out to be a beautiful old town. It made it´s money from gold and mercury and was the scene of one of the most decisive battles in SA history. The Spanish were defeated and Ayacucho became the centre of much political unrest right up until the 1990 when it was home to the Sandero Luminoso, the shining path.

Friday, July 07, 2006 

Almost at Ayacucho

More beautiful if a little dangerous roads.














We should have put the tent up by now... We decided to press on to the next town Huanta. The police at Mayocc assured us it was an hour by bus or by bike and all on the flat. Another 3.5 hours and 35km uphill in the dark we arrived.









Due to the low average speeds so far on the trip Richard decided to improve his aerodynamics much to the amusement of the hairdresser.












The Peruvian cycling team after being sent home from the Tour de France for drinking too much tea!

 

Huancayo to Ayacucho cont...

A beautiful camping spot next to the river and away from the barking dogs of the towns. As towns and villages are so far apart and sometimes not particuarly pleasant, it´s preferable to hide away out of sight.









This was an early morning start at the small village of Acos. We were very pleased to get out of there having been kept awake by howling dogs all night.










After filling our drinking bottles Sarah cools her giant feet.












You´ll notice we take more photo´s of the down hill sections. This is because on the uphill stretches it´s hard enough breathing never mind taking photo´s.











Sarah attempting to hitch a ride!

 

Huancayo to Ayacucho

Appologies for the random order the photo´s have appeared in. We´ll get it sorted out next time but for now here´s a selection of pictures on the road to Ayacucho.

The first day was spent climbing to about 3800m. Easy on paved road but a couple of Km´s later that all stopped. The tarmac or asphalto was replaced by dust and rock.






































The Central Plaza at Huancayo. Notice how new the bikes look...this didn´t last long.















Happy Days......smooth roads and downhill. We´re hoping it´ll all be like this.